448. Arrochar to Lochgoilhead

March 2023

This walk also nearly didn’t happen at the first attempt. I was doing this walk as a weekend trip and so after work on Friday I had travelled to Stansted Airport to take an Easyjet flight from London to Glasgow. Things did not go entirely to plan! The plane arrived late, which meant getting on board late. Then once every one was on board it was announced there was a technical problem. This turned out to be that there was a leak in one of the rear toilets.

They had to call out someone from maintenance to come and take a look. It took quite some time for someone to come (I suspected, given it was gone 10pm by this time on a Friday they would all have gone home, but fortunately this turned out not to be the case). I was hoping they might be able to just lock out that toilet for the flight (it is only 1 hour) and that would be enough but I guess it depends on what was causing the leak and if not using it would be enough to stop the leak (I’m sure no one is going to want that leaking down on them!).

To be honest by this point I was fully expecting the flight to be cancelled. I wasn’t sure how late into the evening either Stansted or Glasgow airport would stay open. If that happened I wouldn’t get to Scotland with enough time to do the walk I had planned.

To my relief eventually someone did arrive and fixed the fault. It was around 11:30pm when the flight did finally take off and so arrived well after midnight into Glasgow. I did however get allocated a window seat, so got a view of the bright lights of Glasgow (or somewhere near) after midnight on a Friday!

This was not ideal, but fortunately for me I had booked a hotel in walking distance of the terminal (the Holiday Inn Express Glasgow Airport). I arrived there are 12:45am but fortunately they were still there at reception.

Due to the public transport I needed for this walk I would have to be up again at 6am. Of course I made the mistake of trying to go to bed straight away and then not being able to get to sleep which meant I probably got even less sleep than I would have liked. But at least I had made it!

In the morning I had a cooked breakfast, since it starts at 6am and did the now familiar walk from there to Paisley Gilmour Street station to catch a train to Glasgow Central. I then walked across the centre of Glasgow to get to Glasgow Queen Street, as there are two main stations in Glasgow and the trains I was using went to and from different stations. I had enough time to buy lunch first. I shunned the Marks and Spencer within the station (very expensive) for the much cheaper McColls opposite instead.

Heading back to the station it was only a few minutes before a platform was announced for the train I planned to catch. This is a train on the West Highland Line and the service seems quite complicated. The train was 6 carriages, dividing twice en-route with 2 carriages for Oban, 2 for Fort William and 2 for Mallaig! Fortunately I was getting off before the train first split so it didn’t matter which carriage I was in. The trains on this line are very infrequent as are the buses back from Lochgoilhead so it was crucial for me everything ran to time, so it was a relief when the train pulled out of the station on time.

I have heard the West Highland Line is very beautiful. Up to this point I had only travelled on it between Fort William and Mallaig and Connel Ferry to Oban. Those parts had certainly been very beautiful, so today I’d be travelling on the southern part of the line and was interested to see what that would be like.

I was not disappointed! Sitting on the left I first got lovely views over the outer part of the Firth of Clyde.

The train then turns north into Gare Loch and then Loch Long. It was a beautiful day for weather and the lack of leaves on the trees meant I also got views between the trees. It really was a spectacular journey (and I believe the scenery is generally considered to be even better further north) and all these photos were taken from the window of the train.

The train arrived at Arrochar and Tarbert station which is the place from which I’d begin this walk. The station is quite basic, the platform being part gravel and I was surprised at the number of people that got off at this station as I thought it was fairly remote. Many seemed to be walkers, but I am not sure where they were all going.

The station was also very welcoming to walkers, with a map of local footpaths marked on the platform, which is a great idea. As you might have guessed by the name, the station is mid-way between Tarbert (which is on the shores of Loch Lomond) and Arrochar (on the shores of Loch Long), on a thin piece of land between the two lochs. I headed down the station approach road to the A83. I was familiar with this part of the road as it was the route I’d drive down to Kintyre and Cowal. Fortunately for me today this part of the road has a pavement so I could follow this west.

In around half a mile I could fork left off this onto the much quieter B838 (which unfortunately doesn’t have a pavement) into Arrochar itself, first passing the church and then down to the shores of the loch, to reach the A814 and the shores of Loch Long.

Fortunately, the A814 has a pavement at this point. What a beautiful place this is, especially on weather like this with a near cloudless sky and the beautiful hills and mountains on the other side of the loch.

I soon passed a disused and rotting jetty beside the large Arrochar Hotel.

Nearing the end of the village and the end of the loch I was pleased to find a tarmac path that would take me over what I presume was the original bridge over Loin Water and likely once part of the A83 but now replaced by a more modern wider bridge alongside, so I didn’t have to traffic dodge for this bit.

This came down to a large car park on the western side of the loch, which appeared to be completely full so there must be a lot of people walking even if I hadn’t seen many since leaving the station. I was pleased to note on leaving the car park that there was a pavement still so I continued beside the A83, it being the most coastal route.

In about half a mile I came to junction on the left where a section of road was now fenced off. I suspected this was once the A83 and a section had been bypassed. I decided to avoid the traffic I would follow this (I later saw it is marked as a road to the Loch Long Torpedo Range and this facility closed in 1986 so it actually wasn’t a bypass but the road into this long closed facility).

This was overgrown as you might expect but the tarmac mostly still visible, making for a traffic-free route even if only for a short time.

This loop road soon returned to the A83 so I was back to pavement pounding, but also glad that there was a pavement to follow. Approaching a place called Ardgartan I reached the site of “Argyll Cabins” and “Forest Holidays”. This seemed to be a Forestry Commission site and also listed a car park, cafe and walks as facilities. Since the pavement beside the A83 also ended here, I took this as my cue to leave the road and head through here, as it seemed to welcome more than just those staying there. In addition it looked a handy shortcut as there was a bridge over Croe Water here whilst the road bridge was a fair bit further inland.

I made my way through this site, crossing the bridge and down to the water. It was very pretty, with the A83 just above me, I was glad to be off that road for now. I made my way down to the shore where there is a large hotel (Ardgartan Hotel). Rather than walk through the grounds of the hotel (which is not allowed without permission I think) I headed down to the shore and followed that.

I could make my way along the beach for a while then onto a track which led back up to the road, now a minor road which is now also part of the Cowal Way.

The road climbs up through woodland though much of it has been logged, which is not very pretty but does at least open out some views of the loch below, as I climb.

The road soon becomes a track (earlier than is suggested on the OS Map) with the track ahead now a forestry track that leads to a small car park. I pass this and continue on the track over the Collessan Burn. There is a little bit of ice in the flow of the stream at the edges, showing it has been cold for some time.

As I cross the burn I have a choice again. The track splits. The official route of the Cowal Way is ahead. However there is a good map of core paths in the area. Confusingly, although this walk is part of the Argyll and Bute Council area, as it is within the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National park , it is the website of the national park that publishes a map of core paths within the park, the Council doesn’t publish the paths within the National Park for some reason.

This map shows that the path which is the route of the Cowal Way splits into two paths, the Cowal Way and another that follows this track to Corran Lochan near the end of the peninsula. I decide however to follow neither of these! Instead there is a lower track marked on the OS map that runs closer to the coast passing somewhere called Dail. If the map is correct I can follow this then double back uphill to rejoin the core path. What could go wrong?

The lower path soon brings me to a quarry.

Fortunately it doesn’t look to be in use any more, or at least not today so I can continue on the track. The woodland soon becomes quite dense so even though I am closer to the shore, visibility of the coast is limited.

Soon however I get a better view owing to logging having removed all the trees.

Indeed the track is covered with debris from this logging and I have to take care stepping over it all. I am glad no activity is taking place today, it being the weekend.

It is a glorious view and I stop to take a few photos. Continuing on the track I soon spot some sheep up to my right.

It is not the only wildlife I spot, as soon I can see another animal ahead on the path moving about and digging. It certainly isn’t a sheep and as I get closer I realise it’s a badger. Although normally nocturnal I know they can be active during the day too (this is not the first occasion I have seen badgers on a walk but possibly is on a coast walk).

Badgers are known to have good hearing (I believe) but this one appears not too. It doesn’t seem to notice my approach and I can get quite close before it spots me and runs off into the undergrowth. It was a nice little encounter!

I continue on the track which heads back into woodland and comes down to a bridge over the burn at Guanan.

Fortunately the marked bridge exists but it is close to the shore again now so I can emerge from the trees to the waters edge and get a good view up the loch. And it certainly is a good view with a view all the way back to the head of the loch, where I have come from.

The map marks a property here, but it is all ruined just the remains in the woodland.

I continue along the track which has a few proper signs now and pass the back of a sign. Turning around I see the sign I have just passed says “Road Closed”.

Oops! Well it’s not really a road, more a track but I guess it is closed due to all the logging that is taking place. I am not sure if I missed a sign coming from the other way or if there wasn’t one, but it doesn’t matter now, I must be on the now open path now I have passed the closed sign, I hope!

I pass another ruin and follow the track which now zig-zags back up through the woodland to reach the formal core path.

I pass more “Road Closed” signs – but it’s too late now and then rejoin the official core path near the top of the same burn I crossed near the shore at Guanan.

When I reach the core path it is very well signed. Apparently it is the Dukes Path.

I am not sure why, but I am re-assured by these good signs which suggest a well made and well used path. A rare treat! It is a wide track, more a road really through the now quite dense forest.

I pass an attractive waterfall coming down from the higher hills to my right and later there are a few gaps in the trees where I can get another stunning view over the loch.

Sadly, directly across the loch it is not quite so scenic as on the other side of the loch there is an “Oil Storage Depot” which I think is used by the navy and this large industrial area is quite a shock after the rural scenery so far.

Fortunately, it is partly shielded by the trees and does not last for long. The track I am on now climbs, at times quite steeply and heads further inland.

Although this is meant to be a coast walk I am about half a mile inland but the more coastal tracks are all dead-ends and I don’t fancy trying to find a way through this dense woodland so I keep to the track and the core path. To my surprise, I soon come across another quarry – a surprise because it’s not marked on the OS map at all (but then I have commented before that the ones of Scotland appear to be updated infrequently).

Again I am fortunate that it is not in use today (as this one is clearly active), it being the weekend although I assume this being a proper path you can walk through even when it is (perhaps having to wait for vehicles to pass). I guess that also explains why the track I had been following was more of a road than a path! There is a stream to the right that looks to have been cut into the land to help drain the track (perhaps for quarry vehicles) and I note it has frozen in places.

It is sunny, but that does also mean it’s cold, though as long as I keep walking I stay warm. The track soon reaches the shore of Corran Lochan so at least that is all as shown on the map! I am re-assured that the onward path (now shown as a path not a track) is signed and the route is clear (and still the Dukes Path). This is the point I turn to head north now broadly following the east side of Loch Goil. I say broadly because it is still over half a mile from the loch shore at this point.

The path runs beside the lochan for a short time, which is partly frozen and very pretty. I can also see some snow on the top of some distant mountains.

The track soon climbs away from the lochan into an area of open moorland with a valley and burn (that flows into the lochan) to my left.

I was a little worried that this part might be a mud bath itg being the winter, but fortunately the path is still pretty good and the muddy patches are easy enough to step over. The landscape is all brown, with the grass and heather all having died down for the winter and spring has not yet arrived.

The path continues to climb soon entering woodland again, alongside another burn which is frozen in a few places, generally where the tree cover thins.

I cross the high point and now the path begins to descend. The woodland looks to be pretty old.

At Stuckbeg Burn the path fords the burn and I can see right down to the loch shore where there are a couple of houses.

Checking the map this is a hamlet called Stuckbeg, which looks to be served only by forestry tracks and paths. I would like to get down onto that track much closer to the shore, but it’s a dead-end and there seems to be no way to it from the track I am on – and it’s far too steep to try and find my own route, it would be dangerous. Must be a very scenic place to live, though.

I soon pass another forestry sign saying it’s 5km from the lochan I have come from. I am surprised it is that far! Having hoped to see a track taking me closer to the shore I eventually get lucky and come to a well signed junction.

Here I turn left to the village via the shore road (another more home made sign warns this track only goes north and there is no access to the south of the peninsula from Stuckbeg, which confirms what the map shows). I suspect the owners of that house might have put it up after getting fed up of people walking past trying to find a way through!

Soon I emerge from the trees enough to get a view of the west side of the loch. I can see a light dusting of snow at the top of the hills behind that road.

Soon I have reached the road, so the end is in sight and the hardest part of the walk is behind me.

I have made better time than expected owing to the path being actually very good, I had allowed longer in case it wasn’t. Actually that’s not really true. I was stuck with the departure time of the limited bus service, but at least it means I’ve not had to turn the last part into a root march to get there in time!

I can see activity on the loch again with some people in a rib boat who I think are diving. Given the snow and frozen lochan I imagine the water of Loch Goil is barely above freezing and I certainly don’t envy that one!

I have made good time so rather than sit at the bus stop I stop and sit beside a slipway and take in the beautiful view. Sadly it has clouded up a little, but at least it’s still dry.

Soon it is time to make my way to the bus stop where I caught the bus last time (and so making sure my walks join up). Last time this bus was a horribly uncomfortable ride in a badly driven mini bus that made me feel sick. I am relieved when I see the bus coming to see that this time, it’s a full sized bus and not the same driver as before. This driver is far less aggressive and doesn’t drive over the pot holed road at great speed, unlike the driver I had before. Once on the A82 progress seems fairly swift, but not swift enough. As before there is a 6 minutes between the buses scheduled arrival time outside Helensburgh Central station and the departure of the train I am hoping to catch. Once again the bus arrives too late (I can see the train pulling out whilst I am just getting on the bus), so I have a to wait for the next one. Fortunately the service on this route is pretty frequent, as the next train is in half an hour.

This time it’s cold enough I don’t feel inclined to walk down to the shore, instead I just head out for a drink then return to the station to await the train which soon arrives and gives a warmer and more comfortable place to wait until it departs. Once more I can get off as the train gets nearer Glasgow and swap to the train a few minutes behind, which goes to the underground platforms of Glasgow Central, where I can change for a train back to Paisley Gilmour Street. From there it’s the dreary walk back to the hotel, just next to Glasgow Airport. After getting little sleep last night and a long walk today I am hoping for a good nights sleep tonight!

This had been another stunning walk and indeed a wonderful day as even the journey to the start of the walk was wonderful. It turned out to be a very varied walk with a good mix of scenery but the views over Loch Goil and Loch Long were very much the higlight, but I also had the lovely encounter with a badger too. I was pleased to find the path was in good condition and easy to follow which also certainly helped matters. It had been a wonderful day!

Here are details of the public transport needed for this walk:-

Garelochhead Coaches route 302 : Carrick Castle – Lochgoilhead – Rest and Be Thankful (A83) – Succoth – Arrochar – Arrochar and Tarbet station (only some buses) – Tarbert – Luss – Helensburgh (Upper Station) – Helensburgh (Central Station). It takes around 25 minutes to travel between Lochgoilhead and Arrochar. 4 buses per day Monday – Saturday. No service on Sundays. The last bus of the day runs only on request. If you wish to use this bus you need to telephone 01436 810200 by no later than 4pm.

Here are the complete set of photos for this walk : Main Link.

Here is a map of the walk:-