452. Woodhall (Port Glasgow) to Dumbarton East station

February 2023

After very many walks around the various sea lochs that feeds into the Clyde, this walk will see me cross that river.

This wasn’t the walk I had originally planned for today. If you’ve been paying attention you will know that I write up the walks as if I did them in order, even though I didn’t, so this walk was actually done before the previous one. I had come up to Scotland for a weekend of walking, which is just about possible if I stick to walks relatively close to Glasgow, as I can fly to Glasgow after work on Friday and return on Sunday night. Today was Sunday so I had to get to the airport in Glasgow for my flight home, this time at 1920 so I had a deadline to meet.

I was staying in the Holiday Inn Express at Glasgow Airport. My plan for today was to walk from Dunoon to Ardentinny (I had walked north from Ardentinny yesterday). That meant taking the train from Paisley Gilmour Street to Gourock then the ferry to Dunoon and finally a bus. However when trying to buy the train ticket on my phone last night I was annoyed to note that the train I would need to catch back from Gourock was already listed as cancelled (as were several others) and with the service only running hourly on a Sunday that would mean I could only get to the airport an hour before my flight which was cutting things tight (especially if something went wrong) or go an hour earlier which likely wouldn’t give me enough time to complete the walk even taking the first train of the day to Gourock in the morning. I believe there was some sort of industrial action which wasn’t a strike but I think some rail staff (guards or drivers, not sure) were refusing to work on Sundays leading to many train cancellations on a Sunday but I’ve lost track – there ALWAYS seems to be an industrial dispute of some sort on the railway network. Indeed public transport in general seems to be far less reliable after Covid than it was before (and was hardly great then).

So having got that off my chest, I had to abandon the planned walk. (Which as you’ll have seen I ended up doing a month later, in March 2023). ScotRail do seem to be the most unreliable all of all the rail companies in my experience.

Therefore it was time for Plan B, which I had to hastily cobble together last night (and without all the required maps with me). Plan B was to continue east from Woodhall (near Port Glasgow) where I had previously walked on the Clyde Coast Path towards Glasgow (ironically I did that walk then because of the failure of public transport to get me to my planned destination then too). I would cross the Erskine Bridge and continue west on the north side of the Clyde as far as I was able before ending somewhere, preferably with a station so I could get back to the airport in time for my flight.

Unfortunately I didn’t have all the required maps of this area with me having not expected to be walking in this area and being limited with luggage space (a cheap hand-luggage only fare and these days Easyjet limit that to a small under-seat bag only, you can’t even use the overhead luggage lockers without paying extra anymore). However I had maps covering about 2/3 of the day and figured that being near to Glasgow it was likely I would have phone reception most of the time to check maps online if needed for the parts I didn’t have a paper map for (which was indeed the case).

Therefore I headed instead to Woodhall station as the first train of the day to Gourouck was still running and this is on the same line. Now unfortunately as I said, this walk was planned hastily. I had previously tried to walk east from Woodhall right along the shore and come up to a point where the water of the Clyde lapped against a wall of the railway line. With no way over other than to illegally cross the railway line I had had to head back. So I knew not to try that again. Instead from the station I took the path on the north side of the tracks down to a bridge over the A8 (a dual carriageway at this point) into Kelburn Park. Here there was quite a pleasant path around the edge of the park, right alongside the Clyde. It was really beautiful.

The weather too was lovely today. It was a beautiful clear, still and sunny day and excellent for photographs so I was very pleased with how the photos came out for the walk today.

The park itself felt slightly down at heel and “edgy”, with quite a bit of graffiti and rubbish and I recall last time I was here I saw what I assumed was drug dealing taking place. Fortunately I didn’t see that this time. (I believe this town is one of the most deprived with the ship building industry having all gone and there are larger areas of derelict tenements).

On the east side of the park now I could see east along the Clyde the tide was much further out than when I came here before. I was surprised to see a load of now rotting wood sticking out of the mud and sand banks.

What used to be here? I assumed some sort of dock or perhaps even ship building but the answer turned out to be the remains of Timber Ponds where wood was stored here after being imported from America and other parts of Europe and stored in these ponds to be “seasoned” by the salt water. I wouldn’t have guessed that! The wood was mostly used by shipwrights and with the Clyde being an area famous for ship building that would explain the size of the operation. I assume with ship building now reduced and modern ships largely made from metal instead of wood the need for this died out.

Part of the path I was following was clearly once a road through the park with parking areas, but is now blocked off (I suspect in an attempt to discourage anti-social behaviour). Passing this barrier there was now a road off to the right. Last time I made the mistake of going ahead so this time I knew to go along this road, passing under the A8 and soon going through a small tunnel on the left under the railway line too. Now I had to turn left to the roundabout with the A8 and follow this west.

This part is not pleasant. I’m following a pavement beside the A8. At this point the A8 is a dual carriageway with a 70mph speed limit and a couple of miles ahead, it becomes the M8 motorway. Fortunately I suppose at least there wasn’t much traffic on a Sunday morning.

Unfortunately, the pavement was not on the coastal side of the A8, restricting views of the Clyde. Instead on the right I seemed to be passing some sort of old countryside estate, behind a stone wall. This seemed to have been partly abandoned with the roads between gate posts blocked off and the grounds looking very over-grown. I don’t know what this was but later I pass the entrance to Finlaystone Country Estate (which you have to pay to go in) so I assume this abandoned land was once part of the garden that has been left to go to seed.

This part of the walk seemed to drag (it’s nearly 2 miles) so it was a relief to finally reach the roundabout where I could, at least for a while, follow the B789 through Langbank. This runs alongside the A8 but has far less traffic (and a pavement). There were a few people about, mostly dog walkers and church goers arriving for the service that I saw was due to start in about 20 minutes.

At the end of the village it was back to the A8 though along the pavement again on the south side of the road.

I had the “Great Britain Topo Maps” app on my phone already and as I lacked the local maps was using it. I noticed this also showed the route of the long distance “Clyde Coastal Path” which isn’t actually shown on the Ordnance Survey Map anyway so it was very useful for me to be able to see the way it went. As I approached the slipway (after which the A8 becomes the M8) I turned right alongside the A8, now a single carriageway road but fortunately for me with a pavement and not that much traffic, as most of the traffic continues on the M8. This soon crosses the railway and climbs up but the height gained means I still get a good view of the Clyde even though I am not directly alongside it.

On the other side I could also see the impressive Dumbarton Castle on a high rocky a hill, an ancient volcanic plug, it looked spectacular. I didn’t know it at the time but that would be the point I left the coast on the other side of the Clyde.

It was a little bit of a trudge along the A8 for nearly 2 miles to reach the edge of Bishopton but at least the pavement had continued the whole way, albeit it quite narrow in places. Bishopton is a fairly large village but at the B815 junction I could turn left off the A8 and follow this road. I had expected it would have less traffic, but it was really just as busy as the A8. Fortunately it also had a pavement and soon the road took me back over the railway line towards the Clyde once more.

As I reached Big Wood (wow, imaginative name!) there was a car park on the left and here the Clyde Coastal Path turns left through the car park and then on a pleasant path around the edge of this woodland. It was a peaceful spot after all the hours I had spent near major roads until now and somehow the sound of the birds singing seemed louder, perhaps because they were no longer drowned out by the sound of traffic.

At the north east corner of the woodland I continued on a path that goes between two parts of a golf course, but fortunately segregated from the golf course so I don’t have to give way to golfers. Golf courses always seem busy in Scotland (in contrast with England) and when you have players standing in the distance it can be hard to see which way they are aiming, especially with the sun behind them.

Anyway this path takes me right back to the banks of the Clyde. It’s quite a busy path but very pleasant and I’m now in a park (Erskine Park) heading towards the impressive Erskine bridge, the closest point to the sea I can walk across the Clyde. Whilst the city of Glasgow is quite close the only real clue is a few residential blocks in the distance. Mostly it is still fairly rural with the village of Old Kilpatrick on the other side of the river. There are even some areas of sand beside the water though I suspect it is quite muddy if I went over for a closer look.

I’ve now reached the Erskine Bridge, though it is high above me. I’ve driven across it many times, but never walked over it before and I am looking forward to being able to see the view rather than having to watch the traffic.

After passing under the span of the bridge I turn right with the path and follow it as it heads uphill.

Fewer people use this path though I do have to dodge a women walking about half a dozen dogs she is completely unable to control. On reaching the A726 there is a path up on the east side of the bridge but the app on my phone says the Clyde Coastal Path goes over on the opposite side so I pass under the bridge and find a Clyde Coastal Path sign directing me onto the path on this side of the bridge. The problem is the path is blocked off with a fence saying it’s closed, there is CCTV monitoring it and to use the path on the other side! So I head back again and take the path up on the east side.

Fortunately for me there is a wide path segregated with fences on both sides which is also separated into a pedestrian path and cycle path, at least most of the way. In a few places work on the pedestrian path means I have to drop down onto the cycle path but few cyclists seem to use the bridge anyway.

Soon I am over the span of the river, which is impressive and also very high. I’m glad of the secure fence alongside but also glad it has gaps big enough I can poke my camera lens through to get a photo of the view!

This is a bridge I have driven over many times but you can’t really enjoy the view from the bridge when driving, so it’s nice to see what I have been missing. Soon I am across the water and descending down to the other side. The path passes soon splits with one part for Kilpatrick Station and the other to a short glen. Checking the map I opt for the glen path, a pleasant wooded path in a narrow valley with a stream flowing through. At the end of the glen Google promises me there is a convenience store. Google is right (isn’t it always?) so I pop in there to get lunch.

Now on the north side of the Clyde it’s time to head downstream again. The Clyde Coast Path has ended now and there doesn’t appear to be a formal coast path on this side of the river, so I must make my own way again. Checking the map the closest point it looks like you can walk is the towpath of the Forth and Clyde Canal. Since the towpath is on the south side I turn left where the map shows a bridge over the canal, which I take. It turns out to be a narrow road bridge, with traffic lights to control the traffic (it’s only wide enough for one way traffic). Once over the canal it does seem to continue and I briefly consider following it if there is a path I can see from the map it will take me into a marsh so I continue on the towpath.

A short distance along there are a few picnic benches, so I stop on one for my lunch. It is a pleasant sit by the canal. Although it’s still quite cold I’m in the sun and sheltered from the wind so it’s quite pleasant. Now after lunch I continue along the canal and the towpath is soon practically a causeway with the Clyde just to my left. I can look over the wall for some nice views along this river.

After a while there are a few points I can head right down onto the foreshore so I take the opportunity to enjoy the views. As the tide was out I soon opt to walk along the foreshore, it’s more or less a beach and quite firm underfoot, but I can soon see a harbour wall ahead so head back onto the canal towpath.

It turns out that harbour is the basin at the end of the canal with a large area for boats to moor up and a sea lock for boats to exit into the Clyde.

Most of the boats look moored up for the winter and one has sunk at it’s moorings, but despite this the canal is beautiful and calm with some lovely reflections.

It’s possible to cross all the lock gates and get to the cobbled road on the other side. I’m now in an area called Bowling and this is the end of the canal, it is a pretty and historical area.

However onwards it looks like the cycle path that runs along the towpath is now running along an old railway line instead (which is a bit of a surprise as this old railway line is only about 100 metres from another, still open, railway line which makes me wonder why there were two railway here in the past). I cross the road and soon head onto this old railway line. It’s not the closest to the sea, but it’s raised up so I can still see the Clyde and it avoids walking next to the busy A814.

Unfortunately this doesn’t last long and soon the old railway line heads into more of a cutting with raised banks on either side so I can’t see the sea anymore.

Still at a road junction ahead the A814 joins the A82, a dual carriageway at this point so the old railway line is between this dual carriageway on my right and the railway on my left, so it’s as close as I can get to the coast even if I can’t see it because of the railway line.

At the end of Dumbarton this old railway line turns more inland. So I opt to leave it and walk into the town on the A814 instead. The junction where I can leave the railway and get to the road is marked by a burnt out car surrounded by police tape.

A sad reminder a large city is nearby. I am hoping at this point it will have a pavement. However I find there is actually a track under the railway line down to the Clyde, so I take this out of curiosity.

There seems to be a path turning right so I follow it, there is even a bench to sit on, so I am hopeful I’ve found a path not on the map.

Unfortunately it gets increasingly narrow and boggy and ahead I can see just reeds. From checking Google Earth on my phone it looks like there is a stream ahead and I suspect it will be too boggy to try and get over that, so reluctantly I head back and join the A814. It’s quite busy and the pavement is quite narrow, but at least there is a pavement and traffic comes in burst due to the traffic lights. This passes some large warehouses in the middle of which is quite a nice looking hotel, but it’s obviously closed down and fenced off (I think it closed about a year or so earlier) and the owners have applied to knock it down, which seems a shame. It was the Dumbuck House Hotel but closed during Covid and never re-opened.

I keep on the road until I can soon turn left off the main road and on quieter residential roads soon crossing the railway and heading back to the shore.

I see a path ahead and there is a dog walker going that way so I follow her and find a good path along the coast again, which has been at least partly surfaced. Checking my phone the path should take me right to the castle and indeed it does, crossing a little stream just before.

The castle is high up on a rocky mound (an old volcanic plug) and I believe you can visit it. Unfortunately checking the time I realise time is up for me today. I haven’t got time to get beyond Dumbarton (and I’ve been walking for many hours now anyway) so I head inland.

Initially I am heading for the centre of Dumbarton but I realise I will be very tight for the train I want to catch. However the National Rail App shows it also stops at Dumbarton East station which is closer, so I head there instead and make it with 10 minutes to spare.

This turned out to be a far nicer walk than I imagined and I really enjoyed it. It was also a bit of a milestone. Given the coast I have walked Glasgow is the last big city I will get near and now I have done the most urban part (the south bank of the Clyde is more built up than the north) and am heading away from the city again. The rest of the coast ahead of me will be more rural.

The train does run and gets me back to the centre of Glasgow on time. I don’t really have time to faff about with going around to Paisley and walking to the airport, so opt for the expensive airport bus. However although expensive it runs every 15 minutes and takes around 15 minutes as Glasgow is fortunate that the motorway goes pretty much to the edge of the city centre, so it’s quick to get out of the city centre.

Fortunately once at the airport my journey home goes smoothly with the flight and the various trains running on time and it has been a very enjoyable weekend.

Here are details of the public transport needed for this walk:-

It is necessary to change at Glasgow Queen Street (Low level) and walk to Glasgow Central for a train to Woodhall. The route is signed alternatively you can often change at Hyndland instead for a train to Glasgow Central Low Level (underground platforms) to avoid the need to walk.

Scotrail North Clyde Line : Edinburgh or Airdie then on to Glasgow Queen Street (Low Level) – Charing Cross – Partick – Hyndland – Dalmuir – Dumbarton East –Dumbarton Central.  Then to either Helensburgh Central or Balloch.  Approximately every 15 minutes seven days a week. It takes around 30 minutes to travel between Dumbarton East and Glasgow Queen Street.

Scotrail Inverclyde Line : Glasgow Central – Cardonald – Hillington East – Hillington West – Paisley (Gilmour Street) – Paisley (St James) – Bishopton – Langbank – Woodhall – Port Glasgow – Whinhill – Drumfrochar – Branchton – Inverkip – Wemyss Bay. After Port Glasgow on Sundays (and sometimes at other times) trains go to Gourock instead of Wemyss Bay. Twice per hour Monday – Saturday and hourly on Sundays. It takes around 30 minutes to travel between Glasgow Central and Woodhall.

Here are the complete set of photos for this walk : Main Link.

Here is a map of the walk:-